Blog - Page 6 of 20 - Marking The Miles

The Ache That Nature Fills: Chasing Life Outside

“Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity.” ~John Muir

These days I find myself aching to be out in nature. The freedom that exists in the open air on a mountain peak is a freedom that escapes those of us in the lowlands who live trapped in a world of screens, walls, and responsibilities we’ve created for ourselves that never seem to end. More and more I realize how truly separate we are from nature, how our homes and vehicles do everything they possibly can to shield us from the outdoors.

Those of us who move beyond those barriers on purpose encounter discomfort. We walk through thunderstorms, endure inescapable sun on fragile skin, fight off armies of bugs that want to feast on our blood, struggle to breathe thick summer air, and desperately try to maintain the aching feet that carry us. We experience the scope of how finite we truly are in the vast arena that is nature. And yet somehow, in spite of all this, the call to return to the places that are pure and unscarred remains.

None of those discomforts can overshadow the peace and solitude that brings us back to ourselves. When I step onto a trail, my mind begins to unravel. Being in nature opens up wells of creativity that our brains are free to tap into on the backdrop of nature’s canvas. Over the years I’ve mentally written dozens of books and articles on my hikes. If only I had the discipline to make notes while walking! All I can think is that those ideas were the overflow of a heart that feels suffocated. Staring at spreadsheets all day long and keeping up with the news have drained me in such a way that I am just now starting to catch up to what I need in order to maintain my work. Time away. I need to escape from computers and cell phones, and being in a place where I literally have no reception is the only way I can do it these days. Sorry, you can’t reach me, I’m in the wilderness…

We are quickly losing the sacred space that allows us to stay in touch with who we are as spiritual beings. Phones are the biggest thief of our time, our relationships, and our creativity. As much as I am thankful for the ability to communicate with my family and friends who live far away, I am equally dismayed by the time my phone has stolen from my husband and I, the time I’ve spent scrolling through articles online as opposed to reading a book, and the time I’ve filled aimlessly that could have been spent intentionally in silence or prayer.

And so, I leave. I go to the mountains when I can. I go on trips when I can. I go to the beach when I can. I go to the places that refresh my soul so I can keep moving. All with the determination to give time to the things that hold meaning and beauty. I don’t know how long this form of escapism will last, but for this season of my life, I want to see the places not everyone can see and notice the things that not everyone observes.

Earlier this year when we were in Scotland, there was such a beautiful lack of clutter in the landscape there. Towns were nestled between hills, with housing and shops arranged in such a way that buildings were adjacent to each other, alleviating the impact on the land. In restaurants no one had their phones out. No one. People actually sat and talked to one another, with the exception of pubs where folks were screaming at TVs that played soccer games, even then, a communal activity. I cannot imagine what the winters there must be like, carving a living off the land, herding sheep with the hope of enough payment to make it till next year. There was reliance on neighbors, folks checking in with each other when they stopped in for a pie at lunchtime. It’s a different world over there…a world I very much wish mine resembled more closely.

And so I go to the mountains and we try to see friends when we can. As the seasons change and autumn approaches, I wonder what winter will hold? Will the busy seasons of work eclipse the need for space away? Will we look back at this time in our lives and wonder how we could have missed so much? Or will we realize that we saw all we could, breathed the fresh, crisp air of clouds at 10,000 feet, and walked until we could walk no more…

“I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately. To front only the essential facts of life. And see if I could not learn what it had to teach. And not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived.” ~Thoreau

AT Journals: Life Lessons Learned Hiking Clingman’s Dome to Cades Cove

This weekend I met up with two new friends to go for a walk in the woods. We’re all from different places, traveling on our own unique paths in life, but hiking brought us together. A weekend was a great time for a short backpacking trip on the Appalachian Trail through Great Smoky Mountains National Park. And like many of the best laid plans for hiking in the Smokies, rain was involved, but the weather couldn’t keep us away.

We hiked from Clingman’s Dome to Cades Cove, heading southbound on the AT to Derrick Knob Shelter, then continuing onto Bote Mountain Trail, and eventually down Anthony Creek Trail back to our tents in the Cove campground. Even though we started at the highest point on the AT, there was a staggering amount of uphill climbs involved. Every time we headed down a mountain there was the realization that an ascent lay somewhere ahead. The trail from Clingman’s Dome to Derrick Knob was the standard narrow, high elevation, forested trail we’ve come to know and love. We encountered some rain, but nothing really heavy, and met some other hikers along the way.

The shelters in the Smokies have a reputation for being mouse-ridden. We slept with our heads toward the opening of the shelter to avoid anything that might run along the walls. Although we never saw any mice, one of the food bags was chewed through at some point. At this time Derrick Knob Shelter was under a bear warning, so we were very careful about hanging everything with a scent on the bear cables. There is no privy here and the “toilet” trail is extremely overgrown. To get water there’s a steep little downhill hike to a spring just off the side of the shelter. We were the only ones spending the night, so we cooked, ate, and fell into our sleeping bags before dark in an effort to dry out and rest.

The next morning dawned clear with blue skies overhead! We ate breakfast while watching a hummingbird and butterflies flit around the bee balm and wildflowers nearby. Once our gear was packed up, we headed out on what we thought was the AT and quickly doubled back to find the actual trail, not realizing what lay ahead of us. Never make the mistake of assuming that going South translates to going down. The trail does have its moments of level ground, but for the most part we went down and up, up, UP, over steep inclines that seemed to go on forever.

This portion of the AT through GSMNP is extremely overgrown. Many times the trail couldn’t even be seen through all the blackberry briars and vegetation growing over it.

We pushed through with trekking poles, our legs and gear grabbed by the thorns. Mid-morning clouds rolled in and the rain began, steadily increasing to an outright downpour that turned the trail into a literal river. Water cascaded down the path, creating miniature waterfalls as we climbed. Level ground became a channel for the rain, and it took no time for our feet to become soaked, regardless of whether shoes were waterproof.

We pushed through the brush, scooted down rocky descents, and climbed the unceasing hills. My legs were on autopilot and felt strong even though my breath was short. I carried an umbrella attached to my pack and wore a rain skirt, which went a long way in keeping most of me dry. We made occasional stops to wring out socks and shoes.

There were moments of laughter at the absurdity of the situation. Rain poured down in torrents, our feet waterlogged by the rivers we walked through that used to resemble a trail. Being around positive people is essential for a good backcountry experience. Hiking with someone who gets irritable when things get hard, complains nonstop about things that can’t be changed, or pushes you beyond your physical limits will diminish the experience and cause emotional drain in moments where every step requires focus and can mean the difference between safety or injury.

When we finally reached Thunderhead Mountain and traversed the ridge to Rocky Top, the clouds had parted revealing the most spectacular views. Every exhausting moment of the morning was replaced with the elation of being surrounded by the peace of the mountains. We soaked it all in, talked with the day hikers, ate some food, and tended to our feet. Leaving that spot was hard. I could have stayed all day and just watched the clouds change.

The rest of the trail was downhill, which can often be harder on the body than going uphill. Bote Mountain Trail is an old cattle path strewn with rocks that are unforgiving to weary feet. Anthony Creek Trail was a softer reprieve, but we continued down until it felt like we couldn’t possibly go down any further.

Having started the day before at an elevation of 6,644′ at Clingman’s Dome, then dealing with the roller coaster between Derrick Knob and Thunderhead Mountain, we were now descending to 1,807′ where the campground lay nestled at the edge of the Cove, a difference of 4,837′ not including the middle section of constant vertical gain and loss.

By the end of our hike our feet ached and throbbed with pain, blisters formed and skin took on the palor of decay. When I fell into bed, a term used loosely when bed consists of an air pad that needs to be blown up just right to feel comfortable, my whole body screamed from overuse, calves and ankles in protest, stiff neck muscles, and my hips, my God, how my hips ached. But the happiness I felt in being on the trail overshadowed every discomfort. Many of the brands I follow on social media often post photos of gorgeous folks with beautifully wind-tossed hair standing in the midst of unimaginable scenery. While I love seeing these pictures, they often don’t tell the part of the story where one’s body hurts and stinks worse than you ever thought possible. In spite of the reality, the benefits are priceless.

Living portions of life outdoors provides greater appreciation for the moments spent indoors. The gratitude for things we often take for granted increases exponentially. After a weekend spent hiking in the rain where my feet were soaked at all times, I return home with gratitude for the feeling of a pair of warm, dry socks and the comfort that comes from walking on a dirt path…showers, fresh produce, the ability to clean the dirt from under my fingernails, running water, my bed, a down pillow, the snuggly weight of a cat beside me.

And in turn, I appreciate the outdoors for the lessons learned.

Endurance is as much mental as it is physical. I can climb mountains and am strong. I can carry what I need on my back and survive in conditions that are less than optimal, even harsh at times.
In the moments at work and at home when I feel overwhelmed or frustrated by what needs to be done, I’ll remember climbing a mountain in a downpour carrying a heavy pack and the feeling of elation when we reached the top as the clouds cleared.
Going to the grocery store in the rain will seem like less of an annoyance. Doing anything in the rain will feel easy in comparison!
Being intentional about the people I surround myself with, like those who find joy at the site of a mushroom, who appreciate wildflowers and butterflies, and stop to admire the beauty of ancient gnarled trees, those for whom all the stops along the way are just as important as the place we will eventually end up.
When you’re in the middle of a situation that isn’t ideal, the only way to get through it is to keep moving forward. Climb the mountains ahead of you, “embrace the suck” as they say, and cherish every moment of reprieve, knowing that you’ll eventually get to the other side.
Being in the wilderness is a cleansing experience for the mind and heart. It clears out the junk thoughts and provides central focus on a task that is humbling and empowering all at the same time.
And perhaps the most important lesson, that I am capable of what I set out in my mind to do. It’s so easy to question our own ability, drive, and purpose, to feel like we are “less than” in the face of talented friends and coworkers, disapproving or questioning family members, and especially social media.

The last morning we headed back up to Clingman’s Dome to pick up the car we’d left there. The sun shone brightly and the blue sky greeted us as we made plans for our next hike.

/appalachian-trail-ga/

/appalachian-trail-shakedown/

Experience Magic On The Isle Of Skye With These Must-See Destinations

Portions of this post were originally published on All Women All Trails, a community of adventurous women sharing their experiences in the outdoors.

After our trip on the Jacobite Train, we headed out toward the Isle of Skye and what a gorgeous drive it was. The scenery kept getting wilder and wilder until we were in the middle of a grand wilderness, as untamed and rugged as it was beautiful. There were golden eagles, red stags, and wild goats roaming the hillsides. Beams of light were striking the lochs below the clouds, causing us to gape in wonder.

It is possible to take a ferry or cross a bridge to Skye, but both of these options can be closed or shut down due to weather conditions, so it’s important to keep an eye on the forecast.

EILEEN DONAN CASTLE

Not far from Isle of Skye is the Eileen Donan Castle, which was closed when we got to it. Thankfully the daylight this time of year is long and we were able to walk around the castle, bracing ourselves against the biting chill wind. The grounds have a cafe and gift shop as well, but the nice thing about this castle is being able to walk all the way around it even when it’s not open.

PORTREE

One thing I took for granted when planning the trip to Skye was that we would actually get there. The day before, the wind had been so strong that the bridge was closed to cars and the ferries weren’t running either. Luckily this was not the case today, so we crossed the bridge and drove straight to Portree. On the way, we saw 5 rainbows and a dolphin swimming in one of the harbors.

Upon getting into town we decided to aim for a restaurant. Not having a reservation meant that the first place we stopped had no available seating for the rest of the evening. The lovely hostess recommended one a few doors down which turned out to be a really great find called No. 1 Bosville Terrace. The staff were so kind, the food was delicious, and even though we spent more than we usually would on a night out, we were glad to have found a meal before every place in town closed for the evening. One thing to know when planning to eat out in Scotland is that it’s best to reserve ahead of time. Most restaurants in this area closed at 9 pm as well, so earlier than we’re used to in the U.S.

FAIRY GLEN, UIG

The places we’ve stayed so far have been quite nice and the Uig Hotel topped the list for the trip. The view out our window is to die for. There is a nice bar downstairs with a respectable choice of Scotch whisky and the breakfast is just as hearty as the others we’ve had up till now.

The Castle Ewen Fairy Glen was a mile from the hotel where we stayed, and little did we know how truly magical it would be. I keep using that word to describe the places we saw in Scotland because it’s hard to describe these mystical lands in any other way. The glen is made up of knobby, conical, and textured hills that look like the wind has blown ridges into them over time. The castle is actually a basalt rock formation that happens to look like the many ruins which dot the landscape on Skye. Sheep roam freely, munching on lush green grasses, talking to each other across the hills with “Baaa!” carrying through the warbles of songbirds in the wind blown trees.

You can walk all over these hills as much as your heart desires, and this is a great place to explore without any fear of getting lost. Not far beyond the “castle,” a lovely stream makes babbling sounds that can be heard through the glen when all is quiet.

Half a morning could easily be spent here, exploring all the nooks and crannies of this unique landscape. Parking is limited, so arrive early, or park in Uig and walk the road (approximately 30 minutes). Be sure to Leave No Trace when traversing the glen. As fun as it is to see the stone circles and cairns, these are often removed by the locals who want to keep this area pristine.

We loved this spot so much. Stunning scenery often makes me question whether I’m dreaming or not, which then makes me question why my actual everyday life is so devoid of this kind of beauty. My soul has been fed to bursting on this trip.

The Isle of Skye isn’t hard to navigate, but some care is required due to the many one track roads around and through the island. Rob got the hang of the pull offs, and I made lots of loud noises when sheep were in the road and I felt like he was going too fast.

Can we just talk about the sheep for a moment? I adore sheep. I don’t know why I love their wooly goodness so much, but I do. When I was a kid I wanted two soooooo badly. This trip is like my childhood dream on steroids. Sheep are EVERYWHERE, and on Skye they roam freely through the glens, in the roads, on all the hillsides. We also hit the sheep jackpot because it’s lambing season and all the tiny little lambs are running everywhere, hopping through meadows, staying close to their mums, taking naps in tufts of grass. Seriously, I am dying.

QUIRAING

After the Fairy Glen we headed to the Quiraing which was such a dynamic spot. When we got out of the car the wind nearly knocked us off our feet. Literally, it was difficult to stand. We’d planned to do the hike, a 6.8 km loop, that leads through this phenomenal area which is part of the Trotternish ridge. The wind was causing me to lose my balance and the raindrops felt like small bullets hitting the skin. We shielded our faces and took in as much of the jaw dropping scenery as we could before deciding to head to the next destination. Leaving this particular walk was the biggest disappointment of the day, but at least we got to see the area, and now have a reason to go back to Skye someday. If you find yourself here on a clear day when the wind is gentle, the Quiraing is the perfect way to spend a couple of hours soaking up all the scenery your heart can hold.

LEALT WATERFALL

Another stunning view of the Skye coast awaited us when we pulled off into the car park for Lealt Waterfall. A trail leads toward the cliffs, where you can look back and catch a view of the falls. When you reach the main overlook, the expanse of sea and coastline lies before you, along with the ruins of the diatomite works below. Diatomite was a deposit used in the manufacture of dynamite and was shipped via railway to the bay. The trail continues downward, eventually leading to the shore where you can get a spot on view of the falls. Although the climb back up is a steep one, this is a gorgeous spot worthy of time and exploration.

SKYE PIE CAFE

The road along the coast is a really great drive because there is so much to see along the way, including castle ruins, waterfalls, the Skye Pie Café. The cafe is now closed, which makes me so sad. The owners also have a yarn company and are venturing out in that direction. There was something really special and quaint about the cafe though. Locals were getting the news from each other, catching up on gossip, and enjoying the company that must be craved when living in such a quiet place. The food we had was delicious. Best of luck to them in their new venture!

OLD MAN OF STORR

The Old Man of Storr was another hike on the list that was foiled due to foul weather. This pinnacle of rock was caused by a landslide many years ago and is one of the most photographed areas on Skye. Chances are you’ve seen pictures without realizing you were looking at Storr.

We were halfway up the 3.8 km trail before the wind and rain kicked in hard again. We were about a half hour in, but could see across the expanse that there was quite a distance left to climb. Ultimately, we decided to call it and instead spend some time in the towns of Portree and Uig. It was the right decision, even though it was sad to walk away from another trail we wanted to finish. The views from halfway up the trail are stunning and I kept turning around to make sure I wasn’t missing anything.

I’m not used to quitting mid-hike, especially on a short trail. When I decide to go, I go, even if the weather is less than favorable. However, the wind on the Isle of Skye is so strong that it was difficult to stand up at times. There are no trees that act as barriers, and weather systems move rapidly across the open landscape. It is possible to hike in these conditions with the right gear, but the experience would have been memorable for all the wrong reasons.

UIG PIER

The shops in Portree had some of the prettiest handmade, artistic items I’d seen since we got to this country. We also enjoyed the Uig Pottery and Quirky Clay stores by the pier in Uig, where we could see our hotel across the harbor. I had to buy one of the adorable little highland sheep after we stopped and talked with the owner of Quirky Clay. He grew up on Skye, went to college in England, and then returned here because he realized he loved it so much. His creations invoke smiles and I wish I could have purchased a whole farmyard full of happy cows and sheep. The Skye Brewery is also in this location, but had sadly closed early that day.

NEIST POINT

The Neist Point Lighthouse sits on a gorgeous peninsula and has a well maintained trail that leads right to its door. Be prepared for a 2.2 km, steep, paved path with stairs and the occasional sheep who might be standing in your way. The lighthouse cannot be immediately seen and requires a walk over the main promontory to get a good view. When we were there, it didn’t seem like the lighthouse was open to visitors, but you can walk around it and enjoy the glorious sea and surrounding cliffs from that vantage point. Even though this trail isn’t long, we definitely took our time and spent a couple of hours enjoying this lovely spot.

I’m going to be so sad to leave this place, but I hope I come back again someday.

Isle Of My Heart

Donald A. Mackenzie

O, would that I were in the Isle of my Heart,
My dear island where I grew up;
O, would that I were in the Isle of my Heart,
Isle of the high cold mountains.

Barefoot I’d run over moorland and heather
If I could cross over the ferry to Kyle,
I would go in a hurry to the village I love
To the home where I was raised.

O, would that I were …

Content I would be if I were just now
Beside the peat-stack on a hillock at rest
The most beautiful mist, wreathing and swimming
And falling o’er the shoulders of Blath-Bheinn

O, would that I were …

My wish is to stay with the kin of my heart
In William’s wee bothy by the waves on the beach,
Where forever we’d listen each night and each day
With but moorland and sea beside us.

O, would that I were …

I see the Meall and I see the Sgorr
The side of Quiraing and the hills of the Storr
Little Helaval and Big Helaval
The Three Streams delta and Gearraidh

RELATED POSTS:

/scottish-highlands-glencoe/

/luss-loch-lomond-the-edge-of-paradise/

Everything You Need To Know When Heading To Hogwarts On The Jacobite Steam Train

For lovers of the Harry Potter series, it’s impossible to go to Scotland and not want to ride the real Hogwarts Express, the Jacobite Steam Train. Our tickets were booked months in advance, and even that far ahead, parts of the train were sold out. Be sure to book tickets as far in advance as possible if this is on your list of things to do. The 84 mile train ride is listed on many of the top rail trips you must do in a lifetime, so we were excited. I want to give an honest review of this trip though, and not all of it was as magical as we’d hoped.

When booking tickets you’ll have the option to choose a 1st class fare in a separate compartment, HP style with tea service, or standard class, which is what we did. Standard class is comprised of sets of tables and seats that face each other, so on one leg you’ll be traveling backwards. We didn’t mind being able to talk to the folks across the way from us, but they were from the US, as many of us were because this is a touristy thing to do.

Although the sites along the route are stunningly gorgeous, there are a few things that can make the trip a frustrating experience. The train will most likely be sold out, therefore it’s crowded and the windows are hard to see out of due to the steam, ash, and condensation that develops along the way. I found it was actually more enjoyable to stand between the cars and open the windows in the doors to get a clear view. Beware that any time you stick your head even partway out a window, ash could fly in your face and eyes, or you could be smacked in the face by a branch. This happened to me several times and my eyes felt rather gritty by the time we reached our destination. One side of the train has most of the good views so if you’re not on that side you miss out. When we went over the Glenfinnan Viaduct the first time we were on the wrong side and didn’t even see it. Don’t worry though, when the train turns around in Mallaig, you’ll be on the opposite side for the return journey.

Supposedly at the Glenfinnan station there is a trail you can take to get to the viaduct, but there isn’t enough time during the stop to walk there. Visitors can see the little train museum though and perhaps have time to buy a trinket or two. This is also a great opportunity to snag a cup of butter beer hot chocolate!

The train ride ends in Mallaig, a darling little port town with a view of the Isle of Skye across the way. We had more than enough time to grab lunch, go in every little shop in the town, walk to the water, and still have minutes to spare before getting back on the train. There is a fun little shop called Haggard Alley which had some models of Hogwarts castle and the Hogwarts Express along with other fun Harry Potter items. The day was sunny, so we ate outdoors (local cheese and beer), took a walk to a lovely little bakery down by the docks overlooking the harbor, visited some small gift shops, along with a yarn shop at the other end of town that had some handmade items.

On the way back I was able to finagle a spot on the correct side of the train and hang out of a door so I could get a video of the train crossing the viaduct.

Click below to play a short recap of the trip!

In our opinion it would have been better if we had driven to Glenfinnan and watched the train pass over the viaduct as opposed to paying to ride it and spend an entire day not being able to explore the places we were passing. Another option would have been to take the train to Glenfinnan, walk the viaduct trail, and then catch the train on its way back to Fort William. We’re hikers who enjoy seeing places on foot so we can get up close and personal with them and this trip made us feel a little caged in. There were many other folks on the train who thoroughly enjoyed the whole ride though. With that said, we’re really glad we were able to experience the views from the rail, but next time we’re in the area, we’ll be the folks waving from the viaduct.